FAQs: How to Properly Lace Dress Shoes

Lacing dress shoes may seem like a small detail, but it can make a big difference in your overall look. Whether you’re heading to the office, a wedding, or a formal event, neatly and correctly laced dress shoes show polish, intention, and style.

Here’s your go-to guide to lacing dress shoes the right way—answered in a clear, FAQs format.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: What’s the proper way to lace Oxford dress shoes?

The most traditional and formal method for Oxford shoes is straight bar lacing (also called "fashion lacing" or "European lacing").

How to do it:

Insert the laces straight across the bottom (inside to outside).
Take the left lace and feed it straight up the left side, then straight across.
Take the right lace and skip one eyelet, then go up and across.
Continue this pattern, alternating sides, keeping all horizontal bars on the outside and vertical segments hidden underneath.

This method creates clean, horizontal lines on the vamp and keeps the laces snug yet elegant.

Q2: How should I lace Derby shoes?

For Derby shoes (which have open lacing), criss-cross lacing is most common and perfectly acceptable.

Steps for criss-cross lacing:

Insert the laces straight across the bottom (outside to inside).
Take each end and cross them diagonally over and under to the next eyelet.
Continue criss-crossing until you reach the top.

This method is easy to tighten and adjust—great for everyday and business-casual wear.

Q3: Is it okay to use bar lacing on Derby shoes?

Yes, though it’s less common. Bar lacing can look cleaner, but it may cause some puckering in Derby shoes due to their open construction. If you prefer a sleeker look and your Derbies are soft enough, you can definitely give it a try.

Q4: What type of laces should I use for dress shoes?

Choose thin, round waxed cotton laces or flat waxed laces. They should:

Match or complement the color of your shoes (usually black or brown).
Be long enough to lace your shoes without excessive length.
Stay tied and not stretch out over time.

Avoid bulky or athletic-style laces, which can clash with formal shoes.

Q5: How tight should I lace my dress shoes?

Lace them snug enough to keep your foot secure but not overly tight. Your foot should not feel compressed, and there should be no bunching of the leather.

If your shoes are too loose, you’ll feel heel slippage.
If they’re too tight, you may feel discomfort across the instep or toes.

Tip: Adjust lacing tension evenly from the bottom up.

Q6: How long should my dress shoe laces be?

For typical 5- or 6-eyelet shoes, laces should be around 30–34 inches (75–85 cm) long.
If your shoes have more or fewer eyelets, adjust accordingly. Extra-long laces look messy, and too-short laces are frustrating to tie.

Q7: Should I tuck in the laces or let the loops hang?

Letting the laces hang naturally is fine—as long as the bow is neat and not oversized.
Do not tuck them inside the shoe—this can be uncomfortable and may cause blisters.

If your laces are too long, consider replacing them or retying in a tighter, smaller bow.

Q8: Is elastic or no-tie lacing acceptable for dress shoes?

Not typically. No-tie or elastic lacing is generally reserved for casual or orthopedic shoes. For formal occasions or business attire, stick with traditional lacing and tying for the best appearance.

Q9: How do I keep my laces from coming undone?

Try the "Ian Knot" (a fast and secure lacing method), or double knot carefully if needed. Make sure your laces are waxed—the added grip helps keep bows in place.

Q10: How often should I replace my laces?

Check your laces regularly. Replace them when they show signs of:

Fraying or discoloration
Stretching or uneven tension
Difficulty staying tied

Fresh laces can make your dress shoes look newer and more refined instantly.

Final Tips for Lacing Dress Shoes

Match lacing style to shoe type—bar lacing for Oxfords, criss-cross for Derbies.
Keep laces clean and polished, just like your shoes.
Avoid overly loose or sloppy bows—they detract from your outfit.
Invest in quality laces—cheap laces fray quickly and ruin the look.

Properly laced dress shoes show attention to detail, confidence, and respect for the occasion. It’s a small touch that makes a big impact—so take a moment to lace up right.